Selvedge Denim Explained
Everything you need to know to become an expert on selvedge denim.
What is Selvedge Denim?
Selvedge denim is denim woven on vintage 30-inch shuttle looms that were made before 1960, as opposed to mass manufactured denim which is made on moderm, non-shuttle looms.
A shuttle loom carries the weft thread across the fabric, back and forth, with one continuous piece of thread. Mass manufactured denim is typically made on large 60 inch looms that don’t use a continuous weft thread, producing a frayed edge. (SEE: The History of Looms)
And to protect the continuous thread from breaking, a ribbon of fabric is added on the edge, called the selvedge edge.
The red ribbon is the selvedge edge
The frayed edge of mass manufactured denim
What Makes Selvedge Denim So Special?
Since selvedge denim is woven using a shuttle loom with one continuous warp thread, the denim tends to be stronger with a tighter weave.
But there are also more air pockets trapped between the threads, making the fabric softer than mass manufactured denim the older it gets.
However shuttle looms are no longer made, so what makes selvedge denim so special is how rare it is.
Selvedge denim is made on pre-1960 shuttle looms to keep the fabric’s heritage alive
Mass manufacturing since the 1960s has replaced all shuttle looms with new technology that is able to weave fabric faster and in greater quantities. So most loom manufacturers stopped producing shuttle looms for the past 70 years.
There aren’t many parts available for the current shuttle looms, so when something breaks, parts can either be borrowed from other machines or made themselves. Each machine in a denim mill becomes like a member of the family, having its own idiosyncratic behavior
It’s a labor of love to keep this denim alive.
the people making the fabric are the torch-bearers that allow the fabric to live into the future
Is selvedge denim stiff?
Raw selvedge denim is stiff. Washed selvedge denim is soft.
Not necessarily. There is a reputation of selvedge denim being stiff to wear at first. But this is only true for raw selvedge denim, not washed selvedge denim.
Raw selvedge denim is directly from the fabric mill and has a lot of starches and indigo dye still on the fabric that make it so stiff. But the extra indigo means when fading starts, there will be a greater contrast between the starting indigo, which is what denim-heads want.
Raw selvedge denim will take months to break in, so many wearers tend to either wash their raw denim themselves, or buy pre-washed selvedge denim.
In any case, whether it’s washed or raw, the selvedge denim is going to change in color and texture, soon becoming your favorite pair of jeans.
Why do people roll up the bottom of their jeans?
The outseam of a selvedge jean has the selvedge edge. That’s why you should cuff your selvedge jeans.
If it’s selvedge, there should be a ribbon of fabric on the side seam. This ribbon is called the selvedge edge and, unbeknownst to most denim-heads, it is not exclusive to denim.
The selvedge edge is just a ribbon of fabric that is used to iprotect the threads from unraveling as well as indicate the type of fabric.
When the cutting process begins for a pair of jeans, the outside seams for both legs are placed along the selvedge edge So cuffing a pair of jeans is showing that the jeans are selvedge denim.
There are many people out there that think cuffing jeans is because they just aren’t the right length, but it’s actually one of the small ways of indicating you’re in the selvedge denim club.
The other ways of seeing whether a pair of jeans are made from selvedge denim are the tab on the back pocket and the coin pocket.
1701 does these all three tags on our selvedge denim, but the back pocket and coin pocket may be different depending on the maker.
The Weave of Denim
Denim weave is an essential aspect of high-quality denim that affects the texture, strength, and breathability of the fabric. The most commonly used denim weaves are the 3x1 and 2x1 twill weaves, which create a diagonal line, called wale, that is characteristic for a twill weave. The warp thread passes two or more times under the weft thread before it will cross one time over, and shifting the warp thread at every step creates the diagonal line.
The front and the back of the fabric have different colors due to the twill weave. This means that in a pair of jeans, the color of the front will be indigo while the color of the back will be cotton colored. Selvedge denim is traditionally woven as a 3x1 twill and is still the most commonly used type of construction.
Denim fabrics weighing more than 10.5 oz. per square yard are generally made of a 3x1 twill fabric, while lighter fabrics weighing less than 10.5 oz. per square yard are mostly made of a 2x1 fabric. The numbers 3 and 1 refer to the number of warp threads per weft thread. The warp crosses three times under the weft, one time over, then again three times under, and so on.
A 2x1 fabric is woven in the same way as a 3x1 fabric but with 2 warp threads per weft thread. Although a 2x1 fabric is strong and durable, it can't compete with a 3x1 fabric in terms of durability and strength. However, it is perfect for hot summer days as it is lighter and more breathable.
Denim weave plays a crucial role in determining the quality and characteristics of denim fabric. Whether you prefer a 3x1 or 2x1 twill weave will depend on your personal preference and the intended use of the garment. Nonetheless, the quality of the denim weave is a vital factor in creating high-quality denim garments that stand the test of time
The History of Indigo
Indigo dye has a long and fascinating history, dating back thousands of years. Indigo is derived from the leaves of the indigofera plant and has been used for centuries to color fabrics.
Woad was once the primary source of blue dye in Europe before the introduction of indigo. Woad is derived from the leaves of the isatis tinctoria plant and was widely used in ancient times by the Celts and other European civilizations. However, the rise of indigo eventually led to the decline of woad production in Europe.
India has played a significant role in the history of indigo, with the country being a major producer of the dye for centuries. British colonialism led to increased trade and business with India, and by the 19th century, India had become the world's largest producer of indigo. However, the exploitation of Indian workers and farmers in the indigo trade was a significant issue during this time.
In the 18th century, Elizabeth Pickney brought indigo to the American colonies, where it became a significant crop in South Carolina. The success of indigo cultivation in the Americas led to a decline in the Indian indigo industry..
Today, however, synthetic dyes have led to the demise of the indigo industry, but there are still some communities who pride themselves on making their own traditional indigo.
Japanese Selvedge Denim
One community who has maintained their historical indigo production is Japan.
Japanese indigo has a unique history, with the plant being grown for centuries in Japan for use in traditional dyeing techniques. Japanese indigo has a distinct color and texture compared to other varieties of indigo, and its popularity has grown in recent years among denim enthusiasts and fashion designers.
One of the factors that sets Japanese denim apart is the use of older shuttle looms that have been refurbished over the years. These vintage machines produce denim that has a tighter, more durable weave, resulting in jeans that are more resistant to wear and tear.
Combined with the use of older shuttle looms, the traditional indigo dyeing process is what gives Japanese denim its unique character and quality.
Raw Selvedge Denim
The process of raw denim fading is a fascinating phenomenon that has captured the attention of denim enthusiasts for years. Raw denim is denim that has not undergone any wash or treatment processes, and as a result, it is stiff and has a darker hue compared to washed denim. Over time, the indigo dye on raw denim fades, resulting in unique and personalized fading patterns that reflect the wearer's lifestyle and habits.
The process of raw denim fading can take anywhere from a few months to several years, depending on the wearer's frequency of use and their individual body movements. Raw denim heads, as they are often called, appreciate the gradual and organic fading process, as it adds character and history to their jeans. Some of the common types of fading patterns include whiskers, honeycombs, and stacks.
It is important to note that raw denim should never be washed, as this defeats the purpose of having raw denim in the first place. Instead, denim enthusiasts recommend spot-cleaning or using a damp cloth to remove stains. This ensures that the unique fading patterns are preserved and continue to evolve with time. Raw denim fading is not just a process but a journey, and for those who appreciate the art of denim, it is an experience worth having.
The Evolution of Fit & Design of Jeans
In the early days of denim, it was all about utility. Denim coveralls were the norm for hardworking laborers, but they soon evolved into half coveralls, which were more practical for miners who needed greater flexibility to move around. These half coveralls were the forerunners of modern jeans.
In 1871, Jacob Davis, a tailor in Nevada, was approached by a miner's wife who asked him to make a pair of pants that could withstand her husband's rigorous work in the mines. Davis came up with the idea of reinforcing the pockets and seams with copper rivets to make them stronger, and he eventually partnered with Levi Strauss to patent the design. The result was a durable, practical pant that became a staple for working men.
As denim jeans became more popular, they also became more fashionable. In the 1920s, belt loops were added to jeans, which allowed them to be worn without suspenders. The design of jeans continued to evolve over time, with different cuts and styles becoming popular in different eras. And although today, jeans come in a wide variety of fits and designs, they all have their roots in the practical, hardworking garments of the past.
Denim As a Symbol of Rebellion
In the early 1900s, denim was seen as the fabric of the working class. It was durable and cheap, which made it ideal for those who worked manual labor jobs. However, denim was not considered fashionable or stylish. It wasn't until the 1950s that denim started to become a symbol of rebellion and youth culture.
In the 50s, wearing jeans in public was still considered shocking. People would never wear them to work or to formal events. It was only acceptable to wear jeans for outdoor activities or manual labor. However, with the rise of youth culture and the popularity of movies like Rebel Without a Cause, denim became associated with rebellion.
By the 1960s, jeans had become a symbol of counterculture and anti-establishment. It was a way to rebel against the conservative norms of society. The hippie movement also contributed to the rise of denim as a symbol of individuality and self-expression.
Today, denim is a staple of American fashion. It's hard to imagine a time when people would be shocked to see someone wearing jeans at the grocery store. Denim has gone from being a symbol of the working class to a symbol of rebellion and counterculture, and finally to America’s uniform.
Types of Denim Finishes
Denim has been around for centuries, and during that time, various techniques have been developed to improve its quality and durability. Many of these techniques were developed to address specific problems that arose during the production and wear of denim.
One such technique is mercerization, which involves treating cotton with a caustic soda solution to increase its strength, luster, and dye absorption. This technique was developed in the mid-19th century to improve the quality of cotton fabric, including denim.
Sanforization is another important technique that was developed to solve a problem with denim shrinking during washing. This process involves treating the fabric with a chemical solution and then stretching it while applying heat to lock in the size. This prevents the denim from shrinking after washing, which was a common problem before the advent of sanforization.
Pre-skewing, invented in the 1970s, is a technique that involves stretching the fabric diagonally before cutting to compensate for the diagonal twill weave. This technique helps to prevent the denim from twisting and warping during washing and wearing, which became a problem in the 1960s as jeans became popular.
Overall, these techniques have been developed over time to solve specific problems and improve the quality and durability of denim.
Denim’s Effects on the Environment
Denim has been a staple of fashion for over a century, but its popularity has come at a cost. Cheap denim production has had a significant impact on the environment, with large amounts of water, energy, and chemicals required to produce even a single pair of jeans. However, some companies are leading the way in sustainable denim production, such as Candiani, an Italian mill that is dedicated to minimizing its environmental impact.
Candiani has developed a variety of eco-friendly denim fabrics, including organic cotton denim, recycled denim, and a unique blend of hemp and cotton. They have also implemented sustainable production methods, such as using natural dyes and reducing water and energy consumption through innovative machinery and processes. By prioritizing sustainable production, Candiani aims to reduce the carbon footprint of denim production and promote a more responsible approach to fashion.
In addition to Candiani's efforts, consumers can also play a role in promoting sustainable denim. By caring for their denim properly, individuals can extend the life of their jeans and reduce the need for frequent replacements. This includes washing denim less frequently, using cold water, and air-drying instead of using a dryer. Furthermore, investing in high-quality, durable denim can also reduce the environmental impact of denim production.
Caring for Your Jeans
Denim is a sturdy and durable fabric, but it requires proper care to maintain its longevity. Whether you have a favorite pair of jeans, a denim jacket, or a chambray shirt, following a few simple care instructions can ensure that your denim stays in great shape for years to come.
The first step in caring for your denim is to avoid washing it too frequently. Denim is designed to withstand heavy wear and tear, and washing it too often can actually cause it to lose its shape and color. Instead, spot clean any stains with a mild detergent and cold water, and hang your denim to air out between wears.
When it is time to wash your denim, be sure to turn it inside out and wash it on a cold, gentle cycle. Avoid using fabric softeners, bleach, or harsh detergents, as these can damage the fibers in your denim. Instead, use a mild detergent formulated specifically for denim or a natural laundry detergent.
Once your denim is clean, it is important to air dry it to prevent shrinking and fading. Avoid putting your denim in the dryer, as the high heat can damage the fibers and cause them to shrink. Instead, hang your denim to dry or lay it flat on a clean towel.
To help your denim maintain its shape and fit, consider storing it folded rather than hanging. Hanging denim can cause it to stretch out of shape and lose its fit over time. Additionally, avoid storing your denim in direct sunlight, as this can cause the color to fade.
By following these simple care instructions, you can ensure that your denim stays looking great for years to come. So next time you're tempted to throw your favorite denim in the wash, remember that a little bit of care can go a long way!
Denim’s Significance Around the World
Denim is a fabric that has transcended borders and has found a place in many cultures across the globe. While it may have originated in the West, denim has become an integral part of fashion in many parts of the world, including Africa, India, and South America.
In Africa, denim has a unique place in fashion, with many people incorporating denim into traditional attire. In countries like Nigeria, Ghana, and South Africa, denim is often paired with Ankara prints to create a fusion of traditional and modern fashion. Denim jackets, skirts, and shorts are also popular choices in African fashion, with many designers using denim as a canvas for intricate beadwork and embroidery.
In India, denim has become a symbol of youth and rebellion, especially among the country's burgeoning middle class. Young Indians often wear denim jeans and jackets as a way to express their individuality and modernity, as well as to rebel against the country's more traditional dress codes. Additionally, denim has also found its way into traditional Indian clothing, with many designers incorporating denim into sarees, kurtas, and lehengas.
In South America, denim has a long history, dating back to the days of cowboys and ranchers in Argentina, Uruguay, and Brazil. Today, denim is a staple in South American fashion, with many designers putting their own spin on denim jackets, jeans, and shorts. In Brazil, for example, denim shorts are a popular choice among women, especially during the country's hot and humid summers.
Organic Denim
Organic denim is not only good for your skin, but it's also great for the environment. By avoiding the use of harmful chemicals and pesticides during the production process, organic denim has a significantly smaller environmental impact compared to traditional denim.
In addition to being better for the planet, organic denim also has benefits for the wearer. Organic cotton used in the production of denim is free from harmful chemicals, making it more breathable and gentle on the skin. This is particularly important for individuals with sensitive skin who may experience irritation from traditional denim.
The production of organic denim is also beneficial for farmers who grow organic cotton. They are exposed to fewer harmful chemicals, reducing their risk of health complications.
Many brands have started to incorporate organic denim into their collections. Patagonia, for example, has been using organic cotton in their clothing since the early 1990s. Other brands, such as Nudie Jeans, specialize in creating high-quality denim made exclusively from organic cotton.
While organic denim may be more expensive than traditional denim, the environmental and health benefits make it a worthwhile investment. By choosing organic denim, you are not only investing in a quality garment but also supporting sustainable and ethical practices in the fashion industry.
Overall, organic denim is an excellent alternative to traditional denim. It offers numerous benefits for both the environment and the wearer, and the growing demand for organic cotton is a positive step towards a more sustainable future for the fashion industry.